COLD FRAME ADVICE PLEASE Hi all and a very happy easter Monday

My cold frames are on gravel - helps with drainage, though that has its disadvantages at times as plants dry out, esp in cells.

You can chose to have the coldframe open and use the ground underneath or to enclose it. Having a floor means less pests get inside - slugs and thrips and caterpillars can crawl in otherwise.

Thanks Kildermorie, that's very useful. Approx what height is the back compared to the front please?

My coldframe is from a kit and the height is uniform, with the lid having a slope of 1 inch to half inch moving down. I can fit a 30cm tall plant inside the coldframe if that helps (it is a good size to have over winter in the frame)

Condensation can build up, which causes botrytis to get hold, so you need to build in ventilation - a block of wood holding the lid open is enough, but with a heavy door you might need a stronger metal hinge or wedge.

When I make a cold frame, I usually make them between 8 & 10" deep at the front, sloping to about 15 -20" at the back, this means you can have taller plants at the back, shorter ones at the front, just as you would in a border, try and site it facing south, as this gives you the longest hours of sun, Derek.