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Cheshire, United Kingdom

I have just moved house and within the property there ia a wonderful garden, or at least one that could be wonderful. It is mature, spacious and well-stocked, but sadly neglected and overgrown. It will take time for it all to be done so I am working on the 'one step at a time' principle. But one of the tasks I have set myself for this year is to try to rescue the lawn. It is a decent size but has turned tussock-y and is ridden with moss and other invasive plants. It is also severely cratered because of squirrel abuse. What steps would you receommend to start the rescue work? Is it worth mowing at all when it is in such a bad and uneven state? Should I rip it all out and start from scratch by re-sowing?

Thanks in advance for your advice.




Answers

 

Inspect the lawn thoroughly - if its more than 60% weeds or undesirable plants, take it up, thoroiughly prepare the area by digging out weed roots, level, walk all over it to get out soft spots, and rake up the surface again, then returf, or reseed. Bear in mind, though, that lawns grown from seed cannot be used normally for 3 months, and that includes regularly walking over it - the first cut or two need to be done by hand, although I find a good, sharp bladed hover mower usually does it without ripping it out by the roots.

If you decide its salvageable, then yes, mow it - remove all clippings and scarify thoroughly, then recut. Check whether the tussocky mounds are actually meadow or wild grass, which you don't want in a lawn - it always grows quicker and makes it lumpy, so dig those out. Then aerate it - it should look absolutely terrible after the scarification, but don't worry, it will recover. Feed the grass with a proprietary lawn fertilizer within a week of scarification (not a combined preparation, just fertilizer for lawns). Once any weeds are growing strongly and the air temperature is reasonable, apply a liquid lawn weedkiller such as Verdone 2 - this type of lawn weedkiller is more effective than those found in combined preparations such as WeednFeed granular ones. You will probably need to repeat the Verdone treatment according to the instructions on the bottle. As for holes or dips in the lawn, fill those in with weed free soil, or use John Innes No. 1, and seed the tops if they hollows are large enough. Be careful when applying lawn weedkiller or fertilizer though- this should be not applied to grass seed or seedlings for up to 3 months.

Mow regularly, always take up the clippings for the first year - after that, if the weather is hot and dry, clippings can be left, but should be collected if its damp. If you want more information on lawns, get hold of a copy of The Lawn Expert by D. G. Hessayon - everything you ever wanted to know about lawns in there, costs around £13, maybe less.

12 Mar, 2016

 

And make sure you have a nice comfy chair for afterwards....

12 Mar, 2016

 

Or an osteopath...;-)

12 Mar, 2016

 

Or both...

12 Mar, 2016

 

haha - thanks folks - I already put the chair out and booked the osteopath after planting out a hedge a couepl of weeks back.

Sounds like a lot of stuff to do but within my limited capabilities. Next job will be to find a decent a lawn mower!

12 Mar, 2016

How do I say thanks?

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