Sure, apples are a go in a windy area. Pay attention that the growing zone of your tree and the zone of your area are the same. Also that the average sun and and rainfall of your area are optimal. Now for the most important thing and that is staking. The new trees should be properly staked so their roots get a firm grip and so the tree grows straight. They might have to be staked for three or four years and the trunk barked covered and protected from deer if they are in your area. Last would be to make sure any rope or wire from the stakes is covered with rubber tubing so the bark is not damaged. There is a lot more to know and I am sure other members will be helping you soon.

It might help to grow some kind of a windbreak on the side the prevailing winds come from too. Griselinia or Eleagnus ebbingii are both good for this and fairly fast growing.

Starting the trees young, and pruning so that they branch low also help with wind resistance.

Another thought - perhaps a good idea choose the rooting stock carefully so you get fairly small trees.

And research varieties.......some tolerate harsher conditions

Try a specialist nursery.....

I might add that when staking and securing the tree do allow for a bit of movement in every direction to encourage the roots to spread and grow deep.

That's why I recommend planting young. The shorter the tree is when planted, the less staking you will need to do, and the stronger the resulting tree will be. First year whips, cut off at 1/2 to 2/3 original height, would be ideal.
Long term, modified central leader would be the strongest way to train it. For easiest harvesting, and lowest profile, make the first main branch come out pretty low, then allow no more than 4 main branches to develop, none with narrow crotches.

Don't forget rabbit guards too......long ones
We had a young tree 3/4 barked one winter.....big bucks reach suprisingly high