Sorry to say but cherries dont like a "severe cut back" also you are meant to do in early summer so the cut ends hopefully have time to heal over before winter sets in ...

Best not to prune cherries until late summer. Cherries are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases, especially Silverleaf and canker.

Since the tree is already cut, don't try to dress the wounds with anything. Just leave it be and let it the tree heal naturally.

As a general rule, you don't want to "cut back" any branch more than thumb thick, no matter what kind of tree you are pruning, or when you prune. Normally, you want to either remove branches entirely, or cut them just above a side branch at least 1/3 the diameter of the one you are cutting. Here in the desert, we use an asphalt emulsion to cover the cut surfaces, to protect the trees from easy entry by flat-headed borers, but since that pest isn't around in the UK, coverings will do more harm than good.
As for what to do now, I would clean up all the stubs, according to the pruning principles that I outlined above, even though that will put the tree in double jeopardy for silver leaf disease. The results of poor pruning over the coming year makes it worth the risk involved in correcting it.
Does anyone know if Bacillus amyloliquifaciens is available to home gardeners in the UK, and is it effective against silver leaf?

Hi Tug, apparently it is available on amazon, but it's a bit pricey at £67.19p + £26.00 shipping, for 1 kilo, it would be cheaper to buy another tree?, Derek.

It won't flower next year now.

I did wonder if a spray of something like a copper sulphate mixture (Bordeaux) in spring might help against silverleaf but it would seem that the best advice would be to give a good mulch and feed in the spring to create a stronger growing tree with better resistance.

What's done is done, and the tree either survives or it doesn't - wound paints such as Arbrex are no longer recommended - they tend to cause more problems than they prevent, so no, don't use anything on the cut ends, but tidy up any split or fractured or crushed cut ends - the cuts should be cleanly made.

also the cut should slant/be vertical so rain water runs off and not sit on the cut surface. if that makes sense.

Thanks, Derek!
Whew! You're right! A new tree would be cheaper! Though one kilo sounds more like agricultural packaging, to me.

Hi Tug, yes you're right, it is packaged for agricultural users, but anyone can buy it, [if they have more money than sense that is, I haven't unfortunately] Derek.

IF the tree was pruned properly, it will naturally scab over and heal. If it wasn't, nothing can save it. Jimmy has excellent advice.

Patience, folks...;-))

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