i am going to move a 150 years old olive tree 125 miles best way to do

it is 30' tall 20' wide 4'wide
can l top it at 12'

Unless you're using heavy mechanical equipment, such as a proper Tree Spade, or probably more appropriately at that size, a Frame and Crane method, its not worth attempting to move it, it'll just die, better left where it is. Even with the right equipment and method, chances of success are relatively limited with a tree that old and that size. See link below, you'll need to copy and paste into your browser

https://www.pracbrown.co.uk/tree-moving-services/

Hi Kris49 and welcome to GoY, don't want to sound negative but the chances of lifting and moving your olive tree successfully are negligible. At 150 years old it will have a large root structure you are almost bound to damage and being out of the ground for several hours isn't going to do it any favours. Is there a particular reason why you want to move this tree?

Olive trees are tough, but that's pretty harsh even for one of those. If at all possible, I would let it stay at home. If you really, really need to move it, this will give you about a 50% chance:
First, make sure that the climate that it is moving to will support olive trees. Using my own State as an example, moving an olive tree from Phoenix to Prescott will guarantee failure, while moving it to Tucson is much more doable.
Next, arrange for the necessary flatbed truck and crane. As Bamboo says, you will probably need to use the frame and crane method, and a large truck to transport it. Think well in advance, since the following steps need to be well coordinated.
Next, arrange for the planting hole to be largely dug before you make the move. It will need to be in the ground and watered in very soon after arrival, and making a few adjustments to the hole is a lot easier than digging a complete new hole while the truck and crane wait!.
The day before the move, cut off all branches less than 2" thick, and all foliage. That will allow the roots to recover from the shock some, before they have to support foliage.
just before the move dig as large a rootball as you can manage with the equipment, and wrap it well with burlap and organic string, such as jute or cotton. The more roots that you can capture, and the better the rootball holds together, the likelier the tree is to survive. Organic wrappings means that you don't have to strip the rootball completely before planting, causing more disturbance--the wrappings will simply rot away without greatly affecting the root growth. It is a good idea to cut as much string as possible, and to cut slits in the burlap before filling in the hole.
Once it is dug up, wrapped, and framed, it should be laid on the truck bed with the roots closest to the front, and the top to the rear. Tie it down well (obviously!) hose the tree down, and cover everything with two layers of burlap, and tie that down well, also. All this helps keep the tree from desiccating on its long trip.
Once it arrives at its new home, quickly adjust the depth of the hole, so that when all is done, the tree will be growing at the same depth that it is used to. Now is a good time to add a few cups of superphosphate to the soil, since olives normally grow in alkaline soil, and phosphate moves slowly in alkaline soil--better to put it where the roots can reach it now.
Install guy wires to keep the tree from rocking in the wind, breaking the new roots, and give it a long, slow, deep soak to settle it all in, and jump start root growth. At the end of that first watering, give it a generous dose of Superthrive to stimulate the roots even more.