Clivia (frost damage)
By Barbb
Hampshire,
United Kingdom 
I have (had) a Clivia with 3 bulbs in one pot. Had for many years kept in the bay window of my bedroom without central heating. It gained sun in morning but spent most of day in shade. Flowered very well too. In 2006 I moved, taking Cilvia with me and repotting. 3 bulbs had become 4 by then. Flowered very well in 2007 but 2008 saw nothing, and first time I had lived with central heating. So having read that a period of cool was needed, moved the Clivia to my unheated greenhouse. Sadly the cold was exceptional this year and found the long strap leaves all soggy. I have cut them back and left well alone for several weeks but today pulled the bulbs out. Or rather one large mass of fibre's with 4 x 3" topsgrowth. (bulbs) It perhaps was not the temperature that inhibited flowering, but truly pot bound. I was told they like to be tight and not repotted for sometime, so had left it. Oh woe!
The only way I can see to divide these plants now is by cutting through the fribre proportionate to the bulb. Is it possible to do this and repot each with the hopes that one may rally? There was bubble wrap around the actual pot so unsure if root fibre is damaged.
Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry if the question is repeated, but tried before registering, and cannot find it now in the lists.
I could photo the Clivia mass tomorrow, as I have left it wrapped in fleece on the bench in greenhouse till I know if there is anything I can do with it.
8 Mar, 2009
Answers
Take heart I left mine in the greenhouse and forgot about it until last week. I have brought it in and i can see signs of life. so it may still be ok.
9 Mar, 2009
~they do like to be pot bound but not indefinitely~I would pot all the bulbs seperately and bring indoors and water until damp and then keep an eye on them~ what have you got to lose?
See advice from the RHS
Clivia do best in bright filtered light in a conservatory or on a windowsill. Avoid direct sun in summer which may scorch the leaves. Place pots away from radiators.
Pot up in a well-drained, loam-based John Innes No 2 compost mixed with multi-purpose compost (25% by volume) and grit. Do not plant too deeply.
For flowers to form, clivias need a cool period of 10oC (50F), from November to February. After this, water lightly applying a balanced liquid fertiliser weekly until the flower buds form, then move to a well lit position with a temperature of 16oC (60F).
After flowering remove the flowers, unless seed is required, and reduce watering. Over winter water sparingly but do not allow pots to dry out.
Re-pot in early spring into a slightly larger container. Clivias flower best when well established in pots at least 20cm (8in) in diameter. Leave to grow on for several years undisturbed, top dressing annually with fresh potting mix.
Propagation
Division: Divide after flowering into containers that just accommodate the roots. Water and keep at a temperature of about 16oC (60F). Offsets can also be detached and potted up.
Seed: Harvest seed from the berries when they turn red and sow immediately. Sow singly in 7.5cm (3in) pots, using a loam-based compost (John Innes No 1) just covering the seed. Germination takes between six to eight weeks at a temperature of 21oC (70F). Grow on at 16oC (60F) once the first leaves appear.
Problems
Non-flowering is usually due to over-potting or high temperatures over the winter.
Plants will flower on short stalks if they have an insufficient cool period over the winter.
best of luck!
Arlene
8 Mar, 2009