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Ualda's Garden


Species: radish rapanus sativus.

Not yet in my garden but I will buy seeds to try growing it so I am getting some info.

I want plant some with the carrots


Hardy annual or biennial

Site and Soil - Most soils dug well, especially the top 15cm (6in).

Plant to Harvest Time:
Summer varieties 3 to 8 weeks
Winter varieties 3 to 5 months

Originally from China, radishes reached Mediterranean areas even before Greek times. They are a staple food in Japan and China, where they are often pickled in brine, preserving them for long periods of time.
They are an ideal vegetable for the amateur gardener, suited to most soil types, rapidly reaching maturity and extremely happy growing amongst taller vegetables. Radish seed is also very economical.
Radishes are also an excellent way to introduce children to gardening - buy a pack of mixed radish seeds in April, sow them early in the month and radishes in a variety of shapes and sizes will be ready May.

Where To Grow Radishes

Radishes like sun, but at the same time like cool conditions. If they are grown in full sun during the summer, they will run to seed or bolt very quickly. For this reason they are ideally suited to as a growing companion to other vegetables such as peas or beans.
The variety to the left is 'Champion'. Very easy to grow, it produces medium-sized ruby-red radishes which are both crunchy and tangy. An excellent choice.
In spring and late autumn when radishes need the sun most, the peas or beans will be short or have been cut down, whereas in the hotter summer months, they will provide welcome shade for your radishes. There is no need to restrict them to being vegetable companions - they will grow equally well amongst deciduous shrubs (such as roses) and annuals (such as sweet peas).

Soil Preparation

Soil conditions for radish are simple; a very well-dug soil to a depth of 15cm (6in) with no stones or fresh compost in it. At the time of digging, add two handfuls of bonemeal per square metre (yard) and work it into the topsoil. The soil preparation should ideally be complete a month before sowing, but it makes very little difference if it is done at sowing time.

When To Sow Radish Seed

Sow small amounts of radish seed but often to ensure a continuous supply rather than a glut at one time - radishes do not keep well in the soil once they are mature. For summer varieties, begin sowing in mid-April and continue at three week intervals to September. Where cloche protection is available, sowing can commence in March. Click here to buy a poly-tunnel or cloche online from our recommended suppliers.
For winter varieties, begin sowing at the end of July at three week intervals to September.

Radish In Containers

Radish are very well suited to growing in containers. They can be sown between other crops which will protect them from the harsh summer sun. They will prefer a loam based compost such as John Innes. Just make sure they are kept well-watered in dry conditions and they will be fine.

Growing Radish Plants

Care of Radishes

Your radish plants require almost no attention once past the seedling stage - their main requirement is a reasonable supply of water.
Do not apply any additional fertiliser to summer or winter radishes, their needs are minimal.
Sometimes birds take a liking to to radish seedlings, however once past the seedling stage, they leave them alone.
Harvesting Radish PlantSummer radishes should be harvested when they are crisp and young, normally about five weeks after sowing - consult the seed packet. If they are left in the ground past maturity they will go peppery and the texture will quickly loose its crispness. If you have too many at any one, give them to friends because they do not freeze well and will only last five days or so in the fridge.
The larger winter radish plant takes about 3 to 4 months to mature, but they have been bred to remain in good condition left in the soil for another three or four weeks past maturity.
Alternatively, they can be harvested, placed in sand and kept in a cool dark place for a month or so.Pests and Diseases of RadishesRadishes are by nature relatively trouble free, and because they mature so quickly, diseases do not have a chance to gain a foothold.

The two diseases which can affect them are:

Flea Beetles (Phyllotreta sp) are tiny black (sometimes with yellow stripes on the outer wings) beetles about 1/10th of an inch (25 millimetres) long.
These little beetles munch their way through the leaves of seedlings and sometimes fully grown vegetables (radishes, cauliflower, cabbage, turnips and swedes seem most affected).
They leave ragged holes in the leaves.
TREATMENT Flea Beetles go for seedlings which are lacking water.
The best prevention therefore is to keep seedlings sufficiently watered in dry conditions.
If a pesticide is required to control the flea beetles, try and use derris which is considered safer for vegetables compared to many other chemicals.
Cabbage Root Fly (Delia radicum or radicans)
The main symptom of the Cabbage Root Fly pest is stunted growth especially if infected as seedlings. Discoloured leaves which wilt. Roots are black and rotten.
The symptoms of Cabbage Root Fly are caused because the roots are unable to function in their normal way.
The disease is caused by maggots of the Cabbage Root Fly munching their way through the roots of the plants.
The flies are most common in spring but they multiply so rapidly that they also appear in the summer and autumn.
In good conditions (for Cabbage Root Fly anyway!) three generations can be produced in a single year.
TREATMENTTreatment of Cabbage Root Fly is only by the spraying of chemicals, there are no known organic treatments.
Either treat with chemicals or dig up all affected plants and burn them.
Treatment with chemicals will not undo all the damage and reduced crops will result. We do not advise treating cabbage root fly with chemicals.
PREVENTION of Cabbage root Fly can be achieved by placing a 15cm (6 in) diameter collar of carpet or underlay around each plant.
This will prevent the fly from laying eggs on the soil near the plant. Lots of other materials can also be used as a collar.
Thick cardboard works well as does most materials which do not rot too quickly.
Burn all infected plants and do not plant brassicas on the same site for three years.

Radish Question and Answer

Radishes will fail to bulb for several reasons.
Possibly, they are not properly thinned and are growing too close together.
Thin plants to a spacing of 2.5 cm (1 inch) apart when plants first emerge.
Radishes should be seeded two to three seeds per inch and thinned when they are about 5cm (2 in) tall to a spacing of one inch apart.
Radishes will also not bulb properly when forced to mature during temperatures above 28C (82F).

Off-flavored radishes are caused by planting at the wrong time or poor cultural practices such as low fertility or low moisture resulting in slow growth.
For highest quality, radishes should grow fast.
Fast growth can be stimulated by adequate fertility and maintaining the soil in a good moisture condition.
If radishes are too old, they taste hot.

Cracking is usually caused by waiting too late to harvest the radishes.
This is caused by fluctuations in moisture which cause the root to swell rapidly and crack, especially near maturity.

Radish leaves are not poisonous and can be consumed although they have a strong, bitter flavor. Many varieties also produce pods when left past maturity - they look a bit like green chillis.
These also are edible, but are not to most people's taste.

Winter radish varieties produce large roots which may be round or elongated and white, red or black.
They require a long season for full growth.
The roots may be eaten raw with vinegar or cooked like turnips.
The flavor of winter radishes is usually pungent and the texture move fibrous and less crisp than common garden radishes.

If radishes have a black, crusty growth around the globe that is scab, a soil borne disease.
It can be controlled by rotation within the garden to avoid planting in infected soil.

Summer Rougette a new globe variety which is a traditional radish shape. The colour is bright red (ideal for colouring salads) and the flesh is crisp and juicy. This variety matures very quickly and copes with pests well.
Summer Sparkler 3 Globe shaped, crimson body, large white tip. Good flavour and crisp. NIAB Approved; RHS Award of Merit

Summer Saxa One of the earliest radishes. Perfectly round roots with bright scarlet skin and crisp white flesh. Stays fresh for a long time after harvest.
Winter Mino Early Long cylinder shape, white body. One of the best winter types. A Japanese Daikon radish.

The root of a member of the mustard family, radishes have a peppery flavour and a crisp, crunchy texture. Among the most popular varieties are the small, cherry-sized common variety which has a red skin and white flesh (the French Breakfast radish is a variation on this type, and has an elongated shape with a deep pink skin that fades to white at the roots).
You can also find black radishes, popular in eastern Europe, which are more strongly flavoured, as well as large white mooli or diakon radishes, which are shaped like carrots. They are popular in Asian cookery and have a very mild flavour.

Radishes are rich is folic acid and potassium and are a good source of vitamin B6, magnesium, riboflavin, and calcium.

All year round, though the British season runs from May to mid October.
They're extremely easy to grow from seed, whether in an allotment or in a window box.

Choose the best
Go for firm-skinned radishes, with no blemishes. If they feel soft, they are likely to be spongy inside. Any greens still attached should look fresh and perky. The bigger the radish, the less crisp its texture, so avoid larger examples.
Prepare it
To increase the crispness of radish, soak them in iced water for a couple of hours. Wash, then chop off the greens, if present, then slice off the root. Leave whole, slice or chop, as required.
Always prepare radishes just before using, as they loose their potency when cut. Mooli or daikon radishes can be sliced, diced or grated.
Store it
In a perforated bag in the fridge for around 3-4 days. Always trim the leaves off before storing, as they'll draw moisture from the radish itself. You can keep the radish greens in the fridge, wrapped in moist kitchen paper then stowed in a perforated bag, for a couple of days.
Cook it
Common red-skinned: raw in salads. Mooki or daikon: raw or stir-fried (3 minutes). Add radish greens to salads.

Photos of this plant