That looks like a newly planted blackberry so I would leave it this year. What you normally do is to train all one years growth to one side and the folowing years to the other side. The last years branches will fruit and are cut off the following winter. You don't have to grow them on alternate sides each year but it makes it a lot easier to see which briars need cutting out.
Can't help with the apple.

Thanks Sue, I seem to remember someone advising me before but wasn't certain. Very pleased it can stay in place.

I think it was me!

More than likely Sue, now if some kind person could please remind me of the answer to my question about exactly what to spray on my apple tree (codling moth problem) I'd be most grateful.

As nobody seems to be answering I just had a look on Google and there's heaps of info about the moth - more about traps than sprays but worth having a look.

Thanks S, I have searched everywhere ( I think) but as you say it's all traps and bands. I'm just goong to have to keep a close eye for the swines. Moths and their offspring.

Why not try a trap then?

It's the only thing for it I guess.

Anyway I posted your plants today. Most are labelled but there is a small Geranium sanguinium that isn't. Its one with light pink flowers. I did put the creeping Jenny in after all - just throw it out if you don't want it.
All the plants are low growing and most will make clumps after a while. The Erysimium will grow taller, a foot or eighteen inches tall and across. It has stems of purple flowers most of the year, though of course a lot fewer in winter. Jut a reminder to watch out for the white sap in the Euphorbia when you need to cut old stems off eventually.