Sounds like you've got heavy clay soil - soils of this type can be dug, but only when conditions are perfect, that is, when the soil has dried out to an extent, but not so much its cracking. The joke is that's about two days a year...

The only answer is to improve the soil by adding as much humus rich material as its possible to get onto it, and that you can afford, and if its really bad, add bags of horticultural grit, too. Over time, this will improve the situation.

I'd leave it till April, personally, in hopes its a bit drier and less sticky, then dig out larger, obvious weeds, don't dig the rest, broadcast Growmore granules and cover the lot with a 2 inch deep layer of composted animal manure. You could just put 1 inch, but that won't stop any smaller weeds growing. Laying this over the soil means it'll get transported on its own into the soil by worms and other soil microorganisms, and will look great while all that's happening. It might be a little smelly initially, but that wears off after a week. And it'd be much easier on your back... It's called the no dig method of soil improvement...

Totally agree. We have decent soil ,but even so we mulch heavily every year to keep it that way.

Got heavy clay soil too. Give the no-dig method a try. It really works.

The advice is absolutely right. But I would also add lime or, if the soil is already alkaline, use gypsum (sold as clay breaker).

Hi, I agree with all the above, but once you've got rid of the weeds, get the hoe going, as soon as you see any weeds showing through the mulch hoe them off, doesn't take very long, and will keep your beds weed free, keep it going through winter when weather permits, and weeding will never be such a big job again, Derek.

Gypsum and lime have to be used with caution in planted areas, Buddlejagar... lime because lots of plants won't like it, gypsum has to be applied at a low rate or it affects growth. Both are fine to use in unplanted ground.

My favorite for weeding mulch was the loop hoe. See small weeds, get this hoe in and give it a little shuffle. The small weeds are then on the surface and dry up very quickly. Not much effort at all.

Thanks to all your replies. I've already been looking at Charles Dowding on YouTube. He is a no dig gardener. I'm amazed at his vegetable results with cow manure straight onto grass.
Have been online looking where I can buy cow or horse manure.
My hubby and I have a difference of opinion with weeding. I always say you must get the roots out - where he says as long as it's buried deep enough that should be enough to kill the weed.
Any opinions welcome ;-)

Make sure any manure you get is well composted before you use it. Yes, technically you need to get the roots out, though its not always possible (bindweed for instance) - weeds are extremely tough and resilient and in spring, leaving weed seedlings on top of the soil means they might reroot themselves and grow, unless they're exposed to strongish sunlight and it dries them out quickly.

Yes agree with what has Been said, however the perennial weeds like bindweed /twitch will always be a problem, but to make life easier here's what to do, scuff off the top weeds, clear, lightly fork/hoe over, add some decent mulch and like Derek says as soon as weeds come up, hoe them off, once you have mulched your borders with a good deep layer all you need to do is to have your hoe at the ready, and every day walk along them borders and any seedlings knock off before they get too noticeable , it's a very simple task and rather than spending hours digging over and feeling that you have not achieved anything you will be spending aprox five or so mins every other day and your borders will look happy and cheerfull through the year as will you.

It'll be the 'lightly fork/hoe' part that's impossible Julien - I had a garden to take care of once that had soil you could make pots with it was so sticky and claggy, and hoeing or forking were next to impossible, other than on 2 days a year.

Yes Bamboo that's is my problem exactly. Oh to be able to lightly hoe. But with everyone's advise my dream may come true in a couple of seasons.

Yes I agree, but when I said lightly hoe and fork I mean the thick layer of mulch, this is the way forward for you pdb just keep the mulching going from time to time,it's that simple.

Pdb I have really thick wealden clay but for years have added compost, manure , leafmould . Whenever I plant anything I add horticultural grit to the compost and now in most of the garden the soil is workable. I do have a big problem with bindweed though and try to dig out as much as I can. It doesn't die if you hoe it off---every little bit of stem roots and grows! I'm finding it more difficult to dig now, so the above advice is very useful to me. Thank you!

Thanks again to all. I have now ordered my manure from Mr Muck. 3,000 litres will be arriving next Tuesday. So that will keep me busy. I understand it's something I'm going to have to do on a yearly basis so eventually I will have wonderful soil :-)) .

For bindweed, I just keep at it until its root system is depleted. It's one of those weeds where once is not enough.