I'd put all three bags on one bed as, spread out, they will have very little effect. Realistically you need to get some grit and other organic material dug into the beds to help open up the clay.

Where I live, conditioning clay soil would require a minimum of 10 cubic feet of organic soil conditioner, and about 1/6 of that in grit, per bed. All of that would need to be dug in about a foot deep. We also use gypsum, but limestone might be more beneficial in acid soils.

Don't despair though - every little helps...

Thanks guys, I've been adding the stuff you recommend over the years and will add more again this one. I still can't seem to grow carrots or beetroot though which we eat a lot of.

Well, both like soft, sandy soils.
Carrots like a "lean" soil, with relatively little organic matter, so the key to conditioning for that is sand, sand, and more sand. I would add the sand an inch at a time, digging the first inch in evenly through the top foot of soil, the second inch through the top 9 inches, and the third inch through the top 6 inches. That will result in a gradual change in soil texture from top to bottom, thereby preserving drainage. To keep the soil from turning into waterproof puddled clay, mix in gypsum or limestone as needed, plus minimal, fine-textured organic matter, such as an inch of peat, and never dig the soil when muddy wet.
Beets like a richer soil, so more organic matter can be used.

Thanks Tug. Presumably you mean sharp sand and I can get plenty of that.

I can't grow carrots or beetroot either Hank. I think for carrots I'll rely on my neighbourhood delivery of veg grown up the top of the lane...

Both need a really fine sandy tilth and no stones!

I am making a space 5 ft x 3 ft x 9 ins deep in one of my beds to see if I can grow beets and carrots. I'm getting compost from the bottom of my bin ( which looks good and has no stones etc in it ) and propose mixing this with 50 % of sharp sand.
What are my chances ? Be gentle with me.

Most of the carrots grown in Arizona come from the Yuma area--essentially irrigated sand dunes. If the soil is still marginal for carrots, such as it is here in Phoenix, the shorter varieties, such as Royal Chantenay, Little Finger, or Tonda di Parigi, seem to work the best.

I'd follow Tugb's advice from yesterday and today Hank, especially on the varieties of carrots to grow. The little shorter stubby ones will probably do best. I'd sieve the compost before mixing with the sand just to ensure there aren't any lumps in it. Sow the seed along a length of string on twine every 4 inches or so putting 3 seeds in each planting hole, then remove the two weaker ones once they are in growth,oh and remove the string/twine once you've sown :) Alternatively run the string/twine along and score a half inch deep line through the soil mix the carrot seed with some sand a dribble the length of the 'trench'; when the carrots start growing thin them out to one every 3 - 4 inches (actually this is probably the easiest way to do it!

I've heard that thinning out can attract the dreaded carrot fly so perhaps put up a barrier before you start? (says me who's not produced an edible carrot since 1957...)

Depends where you are growing, I seem to remember that Hank is in a suburban setting so less likely than if you are near open farmland. Also not sure how you'd set an barrier on a raised bed.

Thanks M and others, I'll be into the job very soon, and will report back eventually.

Look forward to hearing back from you Hank... good luck!

You could put fleece over it until the carrot fly season is over?

Have to say it never worked for us Stera... one of the reasons we gave up growing carrots but, we have the farms growing them all around us.