Maybe this will help, Arwadoo:

http://www.rooting-hormones.com/stenting.htm

I do have to admit that I'm surprised that hardwood cuttings failed. Floribundas are usually the easiest to root of an easy to root genus. Some things to think about:
Did you start them in cool weather? Too much heat will shrivel the cuttings before they root.
Did you remove all of the leaves before starting? Did you limit the length of the cutting to about 35 cm? Were the cutting between pencil and finger thickness? Mistakes in all of these can also cause premature shrivelling.
Did you start them in a fast-draining, yet water retentive, mineral mix--such as medium grade sand, or a mix of sand and pumice? Clays and laterite generally don't work, and mixes with much organic matter tend to encourage rot.
Were you careful to make sure the bottom end was down? No offense intended--I have confused this myself!
Did you water them frequently, while not keeping the soil soggy?
Did you give them enough time? Hardwood cuttings need from 4 to 12 weeks to grow roots.
I'm hoping that the answers to these questions can point the way to success.

Thank u so much Tugbrethil for the response. I am in temperate zone. It is said that if a dead twig is covered with the mud of this area it will sprout. We plant cuttings in the soil in Feb-March and forget about it, they all grow especially roses. For this red floribunda, normal procedure was followed but of all the varieties, the red floribunda failed. Therefore, I am using all the methods to see that I multiply it, find the best way to root its cuttings. I have used cuttings treated with IAA and planted in cocopeat as the rooting medium. Used an easy to rooting piece and wedge grafted the red rose on it, planted cuttings with other rose cuttings in the garden soil.
Let me answer the questions
i) Since plants shed leaves in autumn, we have dormant hard woodcuttings in spring for grafting or planting
ii) The cuttings are only of pencil thickness.
iii) The medium variables were as stated.
iv) Water logging was not a problem as the soil is moisture retentive yet porous
v) Every cutting sprouted except the red floribunda.
vi) Polarity of the cuttings was ensured .

Frustrating, isn't it? You do everything right, but it still doesn't work!

I would have started them in December or January, but it sounds like my climate is hotter than yours. I hope stenting works better for you. You might also try starting the wild rose cutting in fall, and grafting the floribunda on--I prefer T-budding--once it's rooted. Another possibility is air layering, or ground layering, if the stems are flexible enough. Best wishes!

Hi
I will graft it on a wild rose root and let u know the results. Thanks .