moving fruit trees.

It would have been much better to move them in winter, while they were still dormant. However, if you must move them, and they've only been in their current positions less than year, you could attempt it now, keeping good rootballs round them, and without breaking any major roots when digging them out. They will need watering in well once shifted, and you will need to keep them well watered during drier spells throughout spring and summer.
No way of knowing which rootstock they're on - presumably they had labels or packaging when supplied which might have given that info. By the supplied size of the plants originally, they may have been whips or maidens (1 year old)

To train them you will need wires along the fence to fasten the branches to. I would advise you to borrow a book from the library that goes into detail, with diagrams, about training and spacing fruit trees. Would it be possible to ask the person who donated the trees if they know whether they are standards, half standards or dwarfing?

If you are going for the 'espalier' type, then this is easier than it sounds. It involves bending/training side shoots along the horizontal, from the main stem, in layers, cutting out any other shooting branches, from the main central branch - think of a fountain or ladder - and snipping the ends back to a full bud. You can use wires along a length of wall/fence or you can just use cup hooks and ties as the branches grow outwards. Don't worry ... practice makes perfect, and once you've got the 'shape' in your mind you will find it easier to prune to it.

Thankyou for helping with the advice. The move of the trees seems to be successful, the plum has started budding, so fingers crossed on the apple and pear.XXX
Were hoping to grow them as espalier, I have cut them back slightly to what they were so heres hoping.
As soon as i can i will upload some photos....