The best time to take fuchsia cuttings is when they make new growth in the spring, you can take them now, if you can find a non flowering shoot, put it in a pot of peat, I loosely cover mine with a plastic bag, and keep them out of the sun. This goes for hardy and non hardy fuchsias.

Temperature is the thing, as at this time of the year they will take longer to root!

If you can keep your cutting 'frost free' then yes you could take some now, but I think you would be safer waiting until spring as Lizzie says!

This article will fill you in on the finer details!

http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Fuchsia/Fuchsia.htm

Thank you both for your replies. I think I will do as you suggest and wait until Spring. Paulinep

It is a bit late but i've always taken thickish (half to a whole pencil thick) shoots in early to late August with great success. Even though the ones i take are pretty hardy when mature I find young cuttings do not surve outdoors and sometimes even in a cold frame.

Just before the first frosts I bring them indoors in a a very well lit spot on a south facing windowledge in an unheated bedroom and virtually all survive.

More details here and a photo here

http://www.flickr.com/photos/31559373@N00/5106769815/

I see where you are coming from Anchorman.

Like you I find hardwood to semi-hardwood cuttings need leases heat than softwood or tip cuttings, the latter are normally taken in spring!

That's an interesting set up you have there!

I see the window is facing south to get the maximum light available in winter,I have problems in winter through lack of light.

Because of this I tend to take my cuttings in late spring!

I find autumn cuttings much less likely to strike than spring ones, but they will all need winter protection until they get a bit bigger.
Annual fuchsias aren't actually annuals, just not hardy enough to withstand a British winter. You can keep them ticking over indoors or you can bring them indoors and let them dry off almost completely. The leaves will fall and you should keep them in a cool but frost free room. Because they have no leaves they don't need to be in a good light. In about March bring them into a warmer light place, cut back the dead stems to about half and start watering. Spraying the branches with water helps too.
The original branches may grow leaves or all the new growth may come from the base.

The perennials, or hardy ones can be left outside as long as the soil doesn't freeze so if they must be in pots its better to bring them in. If you can plant them in the ground or sink the pots in the ground put them with the crowns about four inches down to protect them from frost.