More pink rose blooms!
By Panther
- 4 Dec, 2008
- 10 likes
Most of the roses here are grown from cut stems. This one I grew from a stem given to me by a workmate.
Comments on this photo
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm Gorgeous :)
4 Dec, 2008
I love a freebee, i try cuttings from allsorts,
4 Dec, 2008
Beautiful.
The leaves look so healthy, too. :o)
4 Dec, 2008
Thank you all.
4 Dec, 2008
Wonderful colour. Congratulations on getting your cutting to root. Roses can sometimes be very difficult.
8 Dec, 2008
Yes I find them hard to grow too Gilli. What I normally do after I plant the stem, is to ensure that the container be placed in an area where nothing would come into contact with it. As the slightest movement would certainly stunt the growth.
8 Dec, 2008
That's true Panther. I've also found with rose cuttings that you have to take the cutting at exactly the right time. Either just before the bud opens or just after the bloom has dropped. Any earlier or later and they don't seem to take. My greatest rose cutting acheivement was rooting one from my David Austin 'Gertrude Jekyll'. David Austins are notoriously hard to root.
Air layering seems to work very well with most roses. Have you tried that?
9 Dec, 2008
Thanks Gilli, for these tips, I never knew about the exact timing for planting these.Please explain air layering, I haven't tried this either.
10 Dec, 2008
With air layering you need to choose a cane which has just finished flowering. Choose a leaf node in about the lower 1/2 to 1/3 of the cane. Remove the leaf from the node and also 2 or 3 leaves above and below the chosen node. Take a really sharp knife and cut through just the outer layer of "bark" or green outer skin of the cane. Try not to cut into the white inner layer. Make sure the cut encircles the stem. Make one cut about 1/2 inch above a leaf node and then make another cut about 1/2 inch below the node. Very gently remove the green outer bark from the stem between the two cuts. It should peel off very easily. Now you should have a 1" peeled area with the chosen leaf node in the middle.
Brush the cut area with rooting powder or gel. Wrap the cut area with a handful of moist sphagnum moss making sure you cover the area all around the stem. Cover the moss with plastic securing it above and below the moss with a twist tie or cotton string. Don't tie the string or twist tie too tight so you don't strangle the cane. Check the moss every so often to make sure it is nicely moist but not too wet. Roots usually form within 3 weeks although I have know it take a bit longer depending on the weather. When you can see roots in the moss ball you can cut the newly rooted baby from the mother plant just below the rooting area and plant it up to a pot or directly into the garden.
I have used a jiffy 7 peat pellet instead of moss on occasion. It works well too. Some people say that covering the plastic with tin foil to keep the light out causes a faster rooting but I haven't found any difference myself. I usually try and pick an area of the cane that is shaded by the rest of the rose bush so that the rooting area is not in direct sun. It does get really hot here. They root best when it is not at the height of summer as far as I can tell.
I hope you have success with this method. :o)
10 Dec, 2008
Thanks Gilli, you are an Angel to explain this so well. I shall be trying this out during my Annual Leave break and will be updating you on its progress.
12 Dec, 2008
Good luck Panther. I'll be interested to know how you get on. :o)
12 Dec, 2008
Certainly will let you know, Gilli.
13 Dec, 2008
Fascinating reading about the air layering description.
I'd not heard about this before. :o)
13 Dec, 2008
Neither have I TT, very interesting indeed! :-)
13 Dec, 2008
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Beautiful colour....
4 Dec, 2008